Friday, March 14, 2008

March Madness strikes...AU?

American University is not known for its sports prowess. That isn't to say that AU doesn't have good sports teams, it certainly does, but although basketball may be the biggest spectator sport on campus (lacking a football team will do that) wins aren't all that frequent. So imagine my surprise when I got a text saying that AU men's basketball was on the cover of USA Today.
AU is playing Colgate in the Patriot League finals tonight - and if they win they go to the NCAA tournament. Big day for AU sports - I'll be wearing my red, white and blue in Edinburgh tonight. I wonder if I can find a pub that is showing the game?

Sunday, March 9, 2008

I love ruggers...

Just thought I'd put up a picture of Jim Hamilton and I - meeting him after the game made a fabulous day that much better. Basically he is massive - he is bending his knees so it doesn't seem like he is as tall as he is, but I definitely had to look up since he is about 6'8". Not bad looking either, I knew there was a reason I liked rugby players ; )! He wasn't playing because he got injured in the Ireland game, which is a shame because he is such a good player.
Longer post to follow, but I'm currently recovering from playing rugby today. I got kicked in the face and have several scratches and bruises - the kind of stuff that makes mom proud!

Calcutta Cup Victory for Scots!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A quick post because I'm still too excited to actually put a coherent thought together. A messy messy game of rugby, but the whole city is celebrating tonight because the final is score is all that matters, 15 - 9 was glorious to see up on the scoreboard. Scotland just executed the basic skills better than England. Especially kicking - major props to Chris Paterson, who has now made 30 kicks from 30 in test rugby - not even Johnny Wilkinson has that record (although he is now the all time leading points scorer in rugby). Dan Parks gets points for his whopper of a penalty kick from 40 meters out on the touch line, but his kicking from hand just didn't have the same impact that CP's did.
It was so awe inspiring to be in Murrayfield today - the energy was incredible and I literally had butterflies for the last 10 minutes of the game it was so intense. What a day! To top it off, I met one of my rugby heroes, Jim Hamilton, as I was leaving the stadium.
No words. It was a perfect day! OH FLOWER OF SCOTLAND...!

Monday, March 3, 2008

Bagpipes, Sexy-ness and Mel Gibson?

Tourist Edinburgh is a delight for eyes, ears and taste buds. On any given day the royal mile is filled with a variety of acts for your entertainment: jugglers and magicians, people selling trinkets or demonstrating traditional Scottish crafts and my personal favourite, pipers. There is a bagpiper who can be found most days in Hunter Square just next to the Starbucks. While some people may find bagpipes grating, I think they are wonderful. The fact that men dress up in traditional Scottish clothing and play pipes on the street is quite exciting. Plus, Edinburgh is a really windy place. Just think how brave those guys are. Just like New York City is pretty much the only place someone could market themselves as the Naked Cowboy and get away with it, Edinburgh is one of the few places someone can play bagpipes on the street corner and not be fined for disturbing the peace. Basically, I love it. Well, there are some actual tourist attractions in Edinburgh that are worth a visit should you find yourself stranded on or near the Royal Mile. Your intrepid reporter, er...broke university student...explored some of these recently and has a handy dandy review!

  • Mary Kings Close - A tourist trap filled with ghost stories, over the top characters and an interesting smattering of history. Worth a visit, if only to see some of the real historical rooms, like the house with the "wallpaper" still intact. Just remember, when they take you into a small room and turn out the lights, a ghost story complete with a big scary bang is on the way.
  • Edinburgh Castle - Home to the Honors of Scotland (Scottish crown jewels), the stone of destiny (where Scottish kings were 'crowned' for centuries until Edward stole it and took it to England and had his own throne built around it, a bold statement that the English monarch was sovereign over both England and Scotland, although the act of Union didn't officially take place until 1707), some of the oldest buildings in Edinburgh and incredible views of the city (both old and new town), the Firth of Fourth and the Waters of Leith. 11 pounds to get it, and you should be prepared to spend at least half a day there, buying the guide book or the audio guide is also a good idea. Don't forget your camera, as picture opportunities abound. This is one of my favourite spots, because really, how often can you say you've lived in a city that has its own castle?
  • Holyrood Palace: Where royals actually lived, because Castles are apparently quite drafty and uncomfortable. Today Holyrood palace is still a working palace, and the Queen starts her Scottish holiday there every summer. Many of the rooms on public view have been restored to 17th century standards and the audio guide is good for more in depth history. Mary Queen of Scots spent some of the most turbulent times of her reign in the Palace - her rooms have been restored and the tragic tale of her life is presented in great detail with artifacts, images and stories. The ruins of Holyrood Abby are also on the grounds and are quite moving. The church ruins still demonstrate the opulence of Gothic cathedral architecture and the surrounding grounds and gardens are lovely.
  • The Scottish Whiskey Experience: On the Royal Mile next to the Castle, the Scottish Whiskey Experience is a whiskey lovers dream. Take the tour to learn about how and where Scottish whiskey is made, as well as a history of whiskey. Or, if you're not the tour type, the bar has a staggering (or maybe you'll just stagger out at the end?) selection of whiskey for you to try. Since I'm not a whiskey person myself, I can't offer much guidance, but I hear that the 20 year old Lagavulin is quite good.
  • Do you like Fudge? Edinburgh is the place for you then. There are two fudge shops on the royal mile, and fudge can be found in every tourist shop next to the shortbread and shot glasses.
  • I finally gave in and bought tartan products. No kilt yet, I'm holding out for when Mom visits! However, I did buy a very lovely wrap in the famous Black Watch tartan. I also bought my "family" tartan. Although it isn't the strongest connection, I can claim some Scottish heritage on my dad's side. So I am now the proud owner of Shaw tartan scarf. It is actually a really pretty pattern, and at least I know what it is - I didn't just buy the Royal Stewart red tartan that graces every biscuit tin in Edinburgh.
  • The Elephant House Cafe: Prepare yourself guys and dolls, this establishment is famous for being the cafe where Ms. J.K. Rowling penned Harry Potter. Honestly, I can see why she chose it. On George IV Bridge, a couple blocks off the Royal Mile, it is a totally unassuming building. On the inside there are plenty of comfy little tables at which you can sit and enjoy the coffee selection. My favourite: Fleur's Fantasy (how's that for a hint - well, that and the giant sign outside ought to do it). But the real treasure is the view from the back, which looks out over the castle. All in all, a great place to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee...and maybe pen a bestseller or seven.
  • The Festival Theatre: Edinburgh may be best known for "The Festival" which consumes the city every summer, but it remains a theatrical city the year 'round. The Festival Theatre on Nicholson has a variety of great shows (at crazy affordable prices, too!). On now: A Midsummer Night's Dream - by the Northern Ballet Theatre. Quite entertaining, not a bad way to spend a Friday night.
  • Tourist Shops: Well, I managed to hold of the touristy shopping for two months (if you don't count buying my Scottish Flag - but that was necessary, I was going to a Six Nations Game), but I finally gave in when a friend of a friend was visiting this week. We hit every cheap tourist shop on the Royal Mile. Have you ever wanted fake bagpipes? A kilt? Clan crests? A t-shirt with the Loch Ness Monster that says "sexy-ness"? Well, now you know where to buy them. Oh, and prepare yourselves - someone is getting that t-shirt when I come home.
  • Mel Gibson?: My friend Jen is reading about the creation of a Scottish cultural identity in her Scottish Ethnology class, and it got me thinking about how the 'tourist culture' in Edinburgh defines Scottish identity. A driving concern seems to be distinguishing themselves from their neighbors to the South, and glossing over the troubles of the 19th and 20th Century. So the Scotland that tourists see has very little to do with the shipbuilding on the Clyde, slums in the urban centers and devastating unemployment. What they do get is tartan, Bonnie Prince Charlie and the '45, a 'historical memory' of the Highland clearances, and the "romanticized Scot" - a Kilt wearing warrior of mythic proportions who battled the Vikings and English with equal fervor and managed to build incredible kirks and keep the family farm and "hielan coos". There is a great book called "One Good Turn" set in Edinburgh, in which the main character laments that he had a hard time finding a pub that Bonnie Prince Charlie or Rabbie Burns hadn't eaten in. I've found a couple, but stay in tourist Edinburgh and be prepared to be beaten over the head with selective history - in pubs, coffee shops and every single close you find. Not that I have a problem with pandering to tourists, but I think it is important to ponder what has happened to Scottish culture. Not all Scottish people are Highlanders - Scotland also has lowlands and thriving urban centers. So why are tourists - and locals - so fixated on the highland ideal? I'm not sure - when, or if, I discover an answer I'll let you know. However, I'll leave you with this question - why does every depiction of William Wallace look like Mel Gibson?
So, that is my touristy advice for now. I guess this is where I throw out a quick update on the rest of my life. Classes are almost over. Two more weeks and I'm off on a grand European tour starting in Prague. I have two exams, May 5th and 6th, and then I'm done. Seems crazy, right? I basically have nothing to do from March 20th until May 5th except travel, study and... Man, going back to AU in the fall is going to be a challenge.
Rugby is going well. EULRFC played Oxford in the first knock out round of the BUSA championships and won 8-6. While I was very excited that we won, I'm not so excited that we now have to travel to Exeter - 15 hours away by bus. Rugby is not going so well for Scotland - they have lost all three Six Nations games so far, have had several unfortunate injuries and overall played well below the level of the other five teams in the tournament. I still (stubbornly and perhaps unrealistically) have hope that they can pull off an upset tomorrow when they take on England in the Calcutta Cup. Amazingly enough (I think its divine intervention), I managed to get my hot little hands on two tickets to the game. So, Jen and I will be there cheering loud and taking as many pictures of all the fit boys as we can. My heart is already pounding at the thought that I get to see Johnny Wilkinson in person (who cares if he plays for England). Hopefully Scotland wins, especially since I hear the whole city has a party if they do. More importantly beating your rival is always a plus. I can compare this to Ohio State - Michigan. As far as I'm concerned, Ohio State can lose every game in a season, and still have a winning season so long as they beat Michigan (North 'till you smell it, West 'till you step in it. - My mother raised me right.) So, Scotland can lose the rest of their games and be okay if they managed to beat the 'Auld enemy'. I have my fingers crossed.

Th-th-that's all for now folks! Hope you enjoyed it!