Old Posts - Februrary Trip to Germany, Luxembourg and Battle of the Bulge

Hello hello! This post has been sitting on my computer for weeks, and I’m just now getting around to posting. Yes, I am aware that I am a giant slacker. Forgive me. So, I guess I’ll treat you to some old blog posts about what I have been up to in the months since I’ve posted.

In February, our group, 22 students and Jerry, headed off for a whirlwind trip about Luxembourg, Eastern Belgium and a little bit of Germany. We spent Wednesday night and Thursday in Luxembourg, which is tiny and beautiful. I don't know if you have been following European weather, but it has been a little chilly in this region of the world. Since Luxembourg is higher than Belgium (really not hard to be higher than Belgium), it was very cold and there was about 3 inches of snow!! Since it had been raining in Brussels for 2 weeks, snow was a very nice change.

There was an academic reason for our program to visit Luxembourg. At the beginning of the EU (back when it was still the European Coal and Steel Community) all of the organizations were based in Luxembourg. Today, only the European Court of Justice and the Court of First Instance are left. On Thursday we went to the ECJ, reviewed the basic structure and how it operates and then we sat in on a case. It wasn't very interesting because it was highly technical and involved a lot of Italian labour legislation, but it was very cool to be able to sit in the courtroom while the hearing was taking place. In the ECJ, hearings are really just formalities, but there is still a lot of pomp and circumstance involved which is pretty cool. We also stopped by the European Investment Bank, which wasn't quite as interesting since it involved a lot of economics and banking stuff. However, they did give us tea and the building was pretty, so not all was lost.

On Friday morning we got up and drove to Trier, which was once a capital city of the Roman Empire. There are a ton of Roman ruins around the city, including a gate, baths and a coliseum. In addition to the Roman ruins, Trier is known as a fairly good wine region. It is also a very student friendly city, so after we walked around all the sites we headed out for some German food. Unfortunately I was under the weather, so I spent the rest of the night in my hotel room watching German television.

My illness on Friday night was just a prelude to Saturday, so I spent Saturday fighting a fever while we drove around the sites of the Battle of the Bulge. While the subject was very somber, the scenery was beautiful. Lots pastoral landscapes and quaint villages. We saw the Siegfried line, which was a German defensive line designed to stop the allied offensive. Finally, late in the afternoon, we got out of the bus to walk the front lines near Aachen. There was about six inches snow on the ground, so you couldn't even tell that it had once been the scene of a horrendous campaign. I took lots of pictures of all the snow covering foxholes and the other trappings of war. What struck me most about our visit to the front lines was that all the carnage seems to have been swept away by time. It isn't even eerie to walk along the road, in fact lots of people use it as a hiking trail. I think I will always remember that I stood in the forest where one of the bloodiest battles of World War Two took place thinking how pretty the scenery was, not about the fact that thousands of brave young men on both sides lived and died there. Today, the hills and fields that were once battlegrounds have reverted to their original purpose, and the people who remember what happened there are dying, leaving nothing more than distant memories. To me, that is a tragedy. The war that changed Europe, and the world, forever, should be remembered. Not just for the men who died far from home, but for what they died for. Maybe if we learn that lesson, we can stop using weapons as negotiation tools and start talking to those who oppose us.

We spent Saturday night in Aachen, the home of Charlemagne and he is buried in the city. Aachen was a beautiful city, with several lovely squares and a very nice little shopping district. I think I fell in love with the basilica, mostly because of the breathtaking mosaics on the ceiling. I took several pictures that turned out well, but they can't compare to walking into the building and looking up. My jaw literally dropped. The ceilings reminded me a lot of the ceilings in St. Mark's cathedral on the Piazza San Marco in Venice – lots of gold and royal blue, incredible renderings of people and incredible attention to detail. Charlemagne is also buried in the basilica, in a very small gold box that is tucked away in the far back. It took us a while to figure out where exactly he was buried, as there are three magnificent gold boxes in the basilica, and Charlemagne is buried in the very smallest one.

After touring the city a little, some friends and I headed out for a nice Italian dinner to celebrate Valentine's Day. While not quite as commercialized as in the US, it seemed to me that every little shop window had a display with hearts set up. There were also lots of decorations for carnival, which is this weekend, so Aachen was extra festive.

On Sunday morning, we got up and headed back to Belgium. Along the way we stopped in at the American cemetery at Henri-Chapelle. The cemetery is very moving, and the director took us on a small tour, telling us stories about the men who are buried there. I have, of course, been to Arlington National Cemetery and seen the acres and acres of white headstones lined up in neat rows. Seeing death laid out like that is always so stark and moving, but the most incredible thing about the cemetery at Henri-Chapelle, is that the director knows the men who are buried there. He told us incredible stories about their lives, about their deaths, and about the families who still remember them. When we were leaving, he told us one final thing that he wanted us to remember. The men who are buried in the American cemeteries did not die of old age. They will forever be 19, 20, 21 - my age - and we should remember their lives and why they died. So, after we left the cemetery we headed to the aptly named Remember Museum. The Remember Museum is run by a Belgian couple that has actively tried to preserve the memory of what the Americans and the allies did during World War Two. They have collected an incredible amount of artifacts from World War Two, and put them on display in their own home so that veterans, their families and individual people can come and see, or remember, the lives of the people who fought in the Second World War. If you ever find yourself in Easter Belgium, it is certainly an interesting museum, crammed full of history and run by a dedicated, compassionate couple.

So, that was our little jaunt around Western Europe. It was educational, sometimes emotional and very fun. I took A TON of pictures, which I would love to share with everyone, so I am working on setting up an online account so you can all see what I've been up to. Once it is up and running, I'll post a link here on the blog so you can check it out if you're curious.

Back on the Brussels front, things have been going well. School and work are keeping me very busy but I love every second of it. I have more stories to update you all on - my trip to Berlin, spring break in Turkey and life around Brussels. I'll get to all of it - expect lots of posts in the next couple days. Miss you all, hope things are going well.

Living Arrangements and Other Odds and Ends

             I'm supposed to be studying for my first test, which doesn't explain why I am uploading pictures of my apartment. As you can probably guess, that is my bedroom. Through the curtains is Hilary's bedroom (my roommate), and then the kitchen and bathroom. It gets a little chilly because of the tile floor, but all in all it is pretty cozy. Anyway, this is where I'm living for the next 3 months (I bet you are all jealous that I get to hang out in such fancy digs)! 

             

If you noticed the changes on the blog, I decided some house keeping was in order, plus I was a little bored of the old pattern and needed to waste some of my free time. This weekend I'm headed off to Leuven, Antwerp and Ghent. I'm obviously brining diamonds back from Antwerp, so if you are in the market let me know. Hopefully this weekend I can set up a web album so you can look at my pretty pictures if you are so inclined. 

Next week is quite busy. We have classes on Monday, and then I'll be at the RMA (which I love!) on Tuesday and Wednesday. Then on Wednesday we are headed off on a mini European tour to Luxembourg, Trier and some of the battlefields. We'll be stopping in at the European Court of Justice and the European Investment Bank as well. 

I hope everyone is well. I'd love to get some updates (*nudge nudge*) as I'm feeling a little isolated here in chilly Belgium. I hope you are all keeping warm in DC. Sarah and Lisa, I hope you are enjoying/excited about the sunshine in the Southern hemisphere - I am quite jealous. Best to all and lots of love!!!

The One Where Liz is an Intern

The program I am on in Brussels has three main features. 1) Academics - where Dr. Jerry Sheridan, of tour guide fame, teaches us everything we ever needed to know about the EU. 2) Lots of traveling - where Jerry takes us out of the class room and shows us all the things we have been learning about (like the European Parliament and NATO). He also takes us to some pretty sweet places that aren't exactly kosher (don't tell Mom that I'm going to the Balkans in April). And 3) an Internship - where we go out and learn all about being real people. 

My internship is at the Ecole Royale Militaire (or Royal Military Academy). I am working with the World Politics/Conflict Studies department, and my job consists of researching defense education in Europe. This is a pretty sweet deal all around, since I'm considering going into defense/security studies. Also, the RMA is about 10 minutes from my house and the campus is really beautiful. There should be more updates on this soon, as tomorrow is my first day of work! I just wanted to let you know what I'm up to, especially since I've been a little lax about keeping up with the blogging. Hopefully that will change as I start to really settle down in Brussels, but with all the traveling and studying ;) going on, I'm still a little busy!

Beautiful Bruges

Since Belgium is a very small country, we get to travel around to all the different cities. First up was Bruges. Bruges used to be a bustling port city, until all the rivers silted up and boats couldn't get there anymore. However, it is probably one of the most beautiful cities (towns?) I have ever been in. Lots of cute little canals, which you can apparently tour by boat a la Venice, and beautiful scenery. Jerry, our program director and professor extraordinaire, led out little tour group around and told us lots of fascinating stories about the place. 

Apparently Bruges was the site of a very famous battle between the French and the Flemish, in which a small army of Flemish peasants killed a whole bunch of French knights. The date of this battle is still the national day of Flanders and there is a giant statue of the leaders of the rebellion in the town square. No wonder there is linguistic conflict in Belgium, eh? Anyway, there is a plethora of beautiful buildings around Bruges, all with their own unique history. We saw one of the only Michelangelo statues outside Italy, of Mary and Jesus as a boy. There is also apparently a piece of cloth that has the blood of Christ on it, which dates from the Crusades. So, long story short, we learned a lot about history and saw a very beautiful city.

Now on to the really important stuff, what we ate! I had my first belgian waffle in Bruges and it completely lived up to my expectations - fresh strawberries and creme and pure deliciousness. After we had lunch we had to work off all of the calories so we climbed the bell tower. We timed our ascent just right, so we reached the top just as the bells started to ring. It was quite loud! After that we decided that the traditional fare of Frites (fries) was in order. My friend Trent and I were adventurous and had ours with mayonnaise (which is traditional), and I have to say that it was actually quite tasty. It was also warm, which was nice because the temperature outside was frigid. And we capped our little trip off with a nice Belgian beer, brewed in Bruges. The beer was good, but we were really confused because they only had bottled beer and we thought that in a brewery they would have at least one beer on tap! 

I might end up back in Bruges in the next couple of years, because the College of Europe is located there. The College of Europe is like the Harvard of the European Union, so if I can swing it maybe I'll head back this way for grad school! Not a bad place to spend a year studying, at any rate.

Welcome to Brussels

Well, I have spent a week in Brussels and I have to say it is fantastic. The weather leaves a little to be desired, but it is significantly warmer than the weather at home so I guess I don't have a lot of room to complain. Most of the first week has been a crash course in Brussels and I have learned so much I don't think I can remember all of it. That being the case, I will give you a little taste of what I have been up to since I left.

• Getting Here: I was the last person from the program to arrive in Brussels on Friday afternoon, however I did make it on time. As I said in my last post, I was quite relieved to make it with all of my luggage. That was because I had a very tight turn around in London, made even tighter by the fact that my plane from Dublin left 30 minutes late. Anyway, after arriving in London I had to collect my luggage (thankfully only 1 bag), make my way from Terminal 4 to Terminal 5 via the train, recheck my luggage onto British Airways, clear security and board the plane. To give you some idea of how close I was cutting this, my flight from Dublin didn't land until 10:40 and I had exactly 1 hour to check my bag or it wouldn't make the flight to Brussels. Miracle of miracles, I accomplished all of this and made it to the gate in London with 15 minutes to spare. 
• Touring Brussels: On Friday night we had a welcome dinner with Dr. Sheridan, the program director, which was very nice even if the food was questionable. Afterwards some of us headed out for some Belgian beer, which hit the spot after a long day traveling. Saturday morning, we woke up and began a full day of acquainting ourselves to the program and Brussels. We learned all about living with Belgian families and what to expect from the program. Then, we walked around Brussels for several hours with Dr. Sheridan acting as our tour guide. We visited the Grand Place, the Manneken Pis and several other touristy areas in old-town. The tour was interesting, but I was glad to get back to the hotel and get out of the cold.
• Living with Belgians:  Our host families met us at the hotel to take us home on Saturday night. I live with another student, Hilary, with a very nice family. Marc-Henri and Anne are the parents, and they have two daughters around our age who are away at school. We live at Montgomery Square, in an adorable house (pictures soon) that is halfway between downtown and the campus. We eat dinner with the family 3 times per week and have breakfast at home every morning. Belgian food is very good, if a little heavy, and Anne is a very good cook. Hilary and I live in the basement of the house, which is basically one long apartment separated by curtains. We have our own kitchen and bathroom, as well as a private entrance. Down the street from our apartment is a shopping district where we go to buy food. There is a grocery store, but I love going to all the specialty stores. There is a bread store, a fruit/veg store, a cheese store, a wine store. The list goes on, but needless to say, it is all fantastic. 
• Class? Yes, I am actually taking classes in Belgium. As much I wish I could just travel and eat and go to museums, I have to actually learn while I am here. The main focus of this program is the European Union, which means I'm a very happy camper. Dr. Sheridan is amazing! He knows so much about Belgium and the EU that I don't think we'll ever be bored. We also get to take a class on European Defense, which I great for me since I've been thinking about getting into that field. All in all this semester is a great opportunity to explore, expand my knowledge and enjoy Europe. There is also an internship that goes with the program, but I don't know where I'll be working yet. I have 4 interviews this week, so keep your fingers crossed that I land something good.
  
• Obama-mania!! Just in case anyone missed the memo, there was a little presidential inauguration last week. While most of my friends froze to death on the National Mall to be there in person, here in Brussels we watched from an American bar on Place Luxembourg next to the European Parliament. I have to say it was much warmer there that DC! I thought President Obama gave a great speech, and I'm quite excited to see what he does in the months to come. I'm also excited because there is a rumor going around that the new President will make his way to Brussels sometime this spring. Maybe the AU Brussels program will be invited for a little meet and greet? Well, it doesn't hurt to hope!

Well, I think that is all for now. I miss everyone so much and I wish you could all come here to visit me. I hope all is well at home! 

Je suis arrivé

This will be a very short post as I am still very tired and about to fall asleep. However, I wanted to let you all know that I arrived safely in Brussels, and (with a series of minor miracles) made it with all of my luggage. Yesterday was a very long day (stops in Dublin and London) but I was relieved to finally make it to the hotel, get a hot shower and reward myself with a pint of Belgian beer. So, I am alive, albeit tired and very cold. 

Off to Europe...Again!

In a week and a half, I'm headed back to Europe! This time I'll be in Brussels, participating in an enclave program and doing an internship. I don't know yet where I'll be working or living, but I'll be sure to update that once I arrive. My goal is to post to the blog once a week, to keep everyone updated on what I'm doing and where I've been. The Brussels program involves a lot of travel, so I'm hoping to keep the blog updated with pictures and reactions! Check back after the 16th for my thoughts on Brussels and being back in Europe.

Springtime in Europe

So, I've had a reqeust for a new post. This has to be a short one though because the Swiss Alps are waiting for me just outside my hotel window. I am now officially on Easter Holidays! So, I've decided to do what every good college student would - travel Europe. The first week of break I was in Prague, an incredibly beautiful city. The problem with Prague is that as soon as you leave Prague proper, you enter post-Soviet world. No joke. Imagine 1960s Bond movies - all those old school cars - they're still on the streets in Prague. The buildings in Old/New Town look like paintings, the buildings in the suburbs look like bomb shelters. It is most definitely not Western Europe however. The views on women are still quite opressive - some friends were coming back to our hostel one evening and were followed by a man who was clearly not well. Anyway, long story short, instead of finding any help they were esentially told to go back to the hostel, the impression they got was that the police officers who came to help thought they were just silly American girls making something of nothing. Since I wasn't there I can't say for sure, but they were quite shaken when they got back to the Hostel, and not a few of them had to reassess their desire to spend more time travelling Europe. My take on it is that it was a truly unfortunate situation, but that things like that can happen anywhere, you just have to be aware of your surroundings and play it safe. For all that though, I loved it. The churches were beautiful, the food was good and the Easter Market was incredible. I especially loved the crepes. And, on the plus side, I managed to bring a hollowed out, painted egg all the way back to Edinburgh without breaking it.

Now I'm in Switzerland getting in some spring skiing in Davos. The weather has been really nice - lots of sun and hovering around 10C. Not bad for April in the Alps. The snow leaves a little to be desired, its quite icy in spots. But, the view from the summit makes up for any problems with the snow. I thought the view from the peaks in Colorado was breathtaking, but nothing compares to the Alps. Simply incredible.

From here I'm off to Milan to meet up with my friend Lisa. We're spending a couple nights in Milan, and from there going to Vienna and Budapest. I'm looking forward to it, especially since the weather is supposed to be nice and Lisa can always be counted on for a laugh. Near the end of our trip I have to reigster for classes, so I guess I'll keep my fingers crossed that our hostel in Budapest has internet and that I can access it at 6am. Oh the joys of being a 4th year student (yeah, its really scary for me too. Don't worry though, I'll give fair warning before I graduate so you can avoid Washington, DC for a while). After Lisa and I get back to Edinburgh, Alyson and I have talked about touring the highlands (insert super excited face) and then I'm popping over to Ireland to visit friends. Finally, after exams in May, Italy, Spain and Morocco are on the agenda. I'll do my best to keep the blog updated, but give me a break if I slip a bit, traveling Europe is a bit more exciting than sitting in front of a computer.

Well, I guess thats all for now. Hope everyone is well.

March Madness strikes...AU?

American University is not known for its sports prowess. That isn't to say that AU doesn't have good sports teams, it certainly does, but although basketball may be the biggest spectator sport on campus (lacking a football team will do that) wins aren't all that frequent. So imagine my surprise when I got a text saying that AU men's basketball was on the cover of USA Today.
AU is playing Colgate in the Patriot League finals tonight - and if they win they go to the NCAA tournament. Big day for AU sports - I'll be wearing my red, white and blue in Edinburgh tonight. I wonder if I can find a pub that is showing the game?

I love ruggers...

Just thought I'd put up a picture of Jim Hamilton and I - meeting him after the game made a fabulous day that much better. Basically he is massive - he is bending his knees so it doesn't seem like he is as tall as he is, but I definitely had to look up since he is about 6'8". Not bad looking either, I knew there was a reason I liked rugby players ; )! He wasn't playing because he got injured in the Ireland game, which is a shame because he is such a good player.
Longer post to follow, but I'm currently recovering from playing rugby today. I got kicked in the face and have several scratches and bruises - the kind of stuff that makes mom proud!

Calcutta Cup Victory for Scots!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A quick post because I'm still too excited to actually put a coherent thought together. A messy messy game of rugby, but the whole city is celebrating tonight because the final is score is all that matters, 15 - 9 was glorious to see up on the scoreboard. Scotland just executed the basic skills better than England. Especially kicking - major props to Chris Paterson, who has now made 30 kicks from 30 in test rugby - not even Johnny Wilkinson has that record (although he is now the all time leading points scorer in rugby). Dan Parks gets points for his whopper of a penalty kick from 40 meters out on the touch line, but his kicking from hand just didn't have the same impact that CP's did.
It was so awe inspiring to be in Murrayfield today - the energy was incredible and I literally had butterflies for the last 10 minutes of the game it was so intense. What a day! To top it off, I met one of my rugby heroes, Jim Hamilton, as I was leaving the stadium.
No words. It was a perfect day! OH FLOWER OF SCOTLAND...!

Bagpipes, Sexy-ness and Mel Gibson?

Tourist Edinburgh is a delight for eyes, ears and taste buds. On any given day the royal mile is filled with a variety of acts for your entertainment: jugglers and magicians, people selling trinkets or demonstrating traditional Scottish crafts and my personal favourite, pipers. There is a bagpiper who can be found most days in Hunter Square just next to the Starbucks. While some people may find bagpipes grating, I think they are wonderful. The fact that men dress up in traditional Scottish clothing and play pipes on the street is quite exciting. Plus, Edinburgh is a really windy place. Just think how brave those guys are. Just like New York City is pretty much the only place someone could market themselves as the Naked Cowboy and get away with it, Edinburgh is one of the few places someone can play bagpipes on the street corner and not be fined for disturbing the peace. Basically, I love it. Well, there are some actual tourist attractions in Edinburgh that are worth a visit should you find yourself stranded on or near the Royal Mile. Your intrepid reporter, er...broke university student...explored some of these recently and has a handy dandy review!

• Mary Kings Close - A tourist trap filled with ghost stories, over the top characters and an interesting smattering of history. Worth a visit, if only to see some of the real historical rooms, like the house with the "wallpaper" still intact. Just remember, when they take you into a small room and turn out the lights, a ghost story complete with a big scary bang is on the way.
• Edinburgh Castle - Home to the Honors of Scotland (Scottish crown jewels), the stone of destiny (where Scottish kings were 'crowned' for centuries until Edward stole it and took it to England and had his own throne built around it, a bold statement that the English monarch was sovereign over both England and Scotland, although the act of Union didn't officially take place until 1707), some of the oldest buildings in Edinburgh and incredible views of the city (both old and new town), the Firth of Fourth and the Waters of Leith. 11 pounds to get it, and you should be prepared to spend at least half a day there, buying the guide book or the audio guide is also a good idea. Don't forget your camera, as picture opportunities abound. This is one of my favourite spots, because really, how often can you say you've lived in a city that has its own castle?
  
• Holyrood Palace: Where royals actually lived, because Castles are apparently quite drafty and uncomfortable. Today Holyrood palace is still a working palace, and the Queen starts her Scottish holiday there every summer. Many of the rooms on public view have been restored to 17th century standards and the audio guide is good for more in depth history. Mary Queen of Scots spent some of the most turbulent times of her reign in the Palace - her rooms have been restored and the tragic tale of her life is presented in great detail with artifacts, images and stories. The ruins of Holyrood Abby are also on the grounds and are quite moving. The church ruins still demonstrate the opulence of Gothic cathedral architecture and the surrounding grounds and gardens are lovely.
• The Scottish Whiskey Experience: On the Royal Mile next to the Castle, the Scottish Whiskey Experience is a whiskey lovers dream. Take the tour to learn about how and where Scottish whiskey is made, as well as a history of whiskey. Or, if you're not the tour type, the bar has a staggering (or maybe you'll just stagger out at the end?) selection of whiskey for you to try. Since I'm not a whiskey person myself, I can't offer much guidance, but I hear that the 20 year old Lagavulin is quite good.
• Do you like Fudge? Edinburgh is the place for you then. There are two fudge shops on the royal mile, and fudge can be found in every tourist shop next to the shortbread and shot glasses.
• I finally gave in and bought tartan products. No kilt yet, I'm holding out for when Mom visits! However, I did buy a very lovely wrap in the famous Black Watch tartan. I also bought my "family" tartan. Although it isn't the strongest connection, I can claim some Scottish heritage on my dad's side. So I am now the proud owner of Shaw tartan scarf. It is actually a really pretty pattern, and at least I know what it is - I didn't just buy the Royal Stewart red tartan that graces every biscuit tin in Edinburgh.
• The Elephant House Cafe: Prepare yourself guys and dolls, this establishment is famous for being the cafe where Ms. J.K. Rowling penned Harry Potter. Honestly, I can see why she chose it. On George IV Bridge, a couple blocks off the Royal Mile, it is a totally unassuming building. On the inside there are plenty of comfy little tables at which you can sit and enjoy the coffee selection. My favourite: Fleur's Fantasy (how's that for a hint - well, that and the giant sign outside ought to do it). But the real treasure is the view from the back, which looks out over the castle. All in all, a great place to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee...and maybe pen a bestseller or seven.
• The Festival Theatre: Edinburgh may be best known for "The Festival" which consumes the city every summer, but it remains a theatrical city the year 'round. The Festival Theatre on Nicholson has a variety of great shows (at crazy affordable prices, too!). On now: A Midsummer Night's Dream - by the Northern Ballet Theatre. Quite entertaining, not a bad way to spend a Friday night.
  
• Tourist Shops: Well, I managed to hold of the touristy shopping for two months (if you don't count buying my Scottish Flag - but that was necessary, I was going to a Six Nations Game), but I finally gave in when a friend of a friend was visiting this week. We hit every cheap tourist shop on the Royal Mile. Have you ever wanted fake bagpipes? A kilt? Clan crests? A t-shirt with the Loch Ness Monster that says "sexy-ness"? Well, now you know where to buy them. Oh, and prepare yourselves - someone is getting that t-shirt when I come home.
• Mel Gibson?: My friend Jen is reading about the creation of a Scottish cultural identity in her Scottish Ethnology class, and it got me thinking about how the 'tourist culture' in Edinburgh defines Scottish identity. A driving concern seems to be distinguishing themselves from their neighbors to the South, and glossing over the troubles of the 19th and 20th Century. So the Scotland that tourists see has very little to do with the shipbuilding on the Clyde, slums in the urban centers and devastating unemployment. What they do get is tartan, Bonnie Prince Charlie and the '45, a 'historical memory' of the Highland clearances, and the "romanticized Scot" - a Kilt wearing warrior of mythic proportions who battled the Vikings and English with equal fervor and managed to build incredible kirks and keep the family farm and "hielan coos". There is a great book called "One Good Turn" set in Edinburgh, in which the main character laments that he had a hard time finding a pub that Bonnie Prince Charlie or Rabbie Burns hadn't eaten in. I've found a couple, but stay in tourist Edinburgh and be prepared to be beaten over the head with selective history - in pubs, coffee shops and every single close you find. Not that I have a problem with pandering to tourists, but I think it is important to ponder what has happened to Scottish culture. Not all Scottish people are Highlanders - Scotland also has lowlands and thriving urban centers. So why are tourists - and locals - so fixated on the highland ideal? I'm not sure - when, or if, I discover an answer I'll let you know. However, I'll leave you with this question - why does every depiction of William Wallace look like Mel Gibson?
  

So, that is my touristy advice for now. I guess this is where I throw out a quick update on the rest of my life. Classes are almost over. Two more weeks and I'm off on a grand European tour starting in Prague. I have two exams, May 5th and 6th, and then I'm done. Seems crazy, right? I basically have nothing to do from March 20th until May 5th except travel, study and... Man, going back to AU in the fall is going to be a challenge.
Rugby is going well. EULRFC played Oxford in the first knock out round of the BUSA championships and won 8-6. While I was very excited that we won, I'm not so excited that we now have to travel to Exeter - 15 hours away by bus. Rugby is not going so well for Scotland - they have lost all three Six Nations games so far, have had several unfortunate injuries and overall played well below the level of the other five teams in the tournament. I still (stubbornly and perhaps unrealistically) have hope that they can pull off an upset tomorrow when they take on England in the Calcutta Cup. Amazingly enough (I think its divine intervention), I managed to get my hot little hands on two tickets to the game. So, Jen and I will be there cheering loud and taking as many pictures of all the fit boys as we can. My heart is already pounding at the thought that I get to see Johnny Wilkinson in person (who cares if he plays for England). Hopefully Scotland wins, especially since I hear the whole city has a party if they do. More importantly beating your rival is always a plus. I can compare this to Ohio State - Michigan. As far as I'm concerned, Ohio State can lose every game in a season, and still have a winning season so long as they beat Michigan (North 'till you smell it, West 'till you step in it. - My mother raised me right.) So, Scotland can lose the rest of their games and be okay if they managed to beat the 'Auld enemy'. I have my fingers crossed.

Th-th-that's all for now folks! Hope you enjoyed it!

Delicious Dining in Old Town

My DC family is in town visiting this week, and luckily for me, Gordon and Stacia have exquisite taste in food and wine. Translation: I don't have to cook for myself this week and I get to enjoy good wine. Anyway, we discovered a gem on Sunday night. Wedgwood on the Royal Mile has great food, amazing wine and a good atmosphere. It has only been open for about six months, but if you ever find yourself in Edinburgh and need a good place to eat, it is well worth the visit.

• The Basics:

Wedgwood
Royal Mile
267 Canongate
Edinburgh, EH8 8BQ

0131 5588 737

What Happened to January?

I have no idea where the time has gone - but to fall back on the old cliché, I guess time really does fly when you're having fun. Scotland is still incredible, especially since the weather has improved. It has been mostly sunny for two weeks (I hope I didn't just jinx it), and not too unbearably cold. Classes have been going well, I just finished my reading week, something that I think all American universities should implement. However, as my father says, British universities just seem to take the notion of being civilized a bit more seriously. If you don't know what a reading week is (although the name is fairly self explanatory), it is a week, without lectures and tutorials, dedicated solely to reading and writing papers. Moral of the story is, while I haven't done as much reading as I should have, it still makes for a nice break and plenty of time to explore the library. Rugby is also going well, we played in Aberdeen last Sunday (a very gray city, but an exceedingly pretty drive) and in Leeds on Wednesday (also a pretty drive through some very picturesque English country side). The return trip from Leeds was very interesting. Our bus broke down on the side of the road, and thanks to a very kind twist of fate, instead of sitting on the bus for two and a half hours while it was fixed, we invaded a small pub. I think the 6 old men who were quietly watching a football game were quite surprised when 20 girls walked in, but they were good sports and better company and we spent the 2 1/2 hours drinking pints, watching football and playing Scrabble. A very funny way to end a 5 hour bus rid at any rate.
In my last post I mentioned the start of the 6 Nations Tournament, and while I am reluctant to discuss how poorly Scotland has been playing (and the prospect of France winning yet again), I have to say that going to a live international rugby match is quite an experience. I managed to get tickets to France v. Scotland on February 3 at the very last minute. The student tickets were only 15 pounds, and we actually had great seats. I think that might be because we sat in Row V instead of Row VV like we were supposed to, but no one kicked us out, so we watched from the first row of the upper deck and had an unobstructed view of the pitch. The game was abysmal rugby - Scotland at its worst and France slipping by on sloppy play and Vincent Clerc's speed. The final score, 27-6, was disappointing, especially since several commentators had picked Scotland to put on a good show, and possibly even surprise the young, untried French team. Unfortunately Scotland never played like they wanted to win - they were always playing catch up, made too many basic mistakes (an International team should not drop the ball the way Scotland did in that game) and seemed to lack passion. For what it matters, I can say the same thing for the Scottish fans. The French fans won the contest of pride in Murrayfield that day. I expected they would be vocal and boisterous (while watching France beat the All Blacks in the Quarter Finals of the Rugby World last fall, I thought the floor was going to collapse because of all the jumping and screaming from the French fans), I was unprepared for the reality. The French fans sang "La Marseillaise" so passionately I was amazed. "Flower of Scotland" was moving as well, but at the time I felt like the French fans far outnumbered the Scottish fans. The bands and costumes and the constant cheers ("Allez les Bleus" is amazingly catchy and incredibly grating all at once) were entertaining if nothing else. Not even Loch Lomond got the Scottish fans into the game. Admittedly the French had much more to cheer, but still, it was obvious that the Scottish fans didn't expect much and the team reflected that. At one point I could clearly see the Scottish replacement players, and even they seemed disappointed. To be fair, I almost went deaf when Chris Paterson took the field, but although he galvanized the team and the fans, it was too little too late. The Scotland-Wales game last weekend went a little better, but Scotland has yet to score a try in the tournament. If they continue at this rate, it looks like another year with the wooden spoon. Sigh, I had such high hopes going in. But, the Calcutta Cup is in Scotland this year, and if Scotland can manage a repeat of the 18-12 victory over England in 2006 the tournament won't be a total loss. As for who I'm picking to win, my vote goes to Wales. They are on fire right now, Gatland is keeping all the players on their toes with his ruthless selection process and they are playing like a team that wants to win. Their first win at Twickenham in 20 years, and a convincing win against Scotland at home should give them a lot of steam for the next three games.
Okay, stint as a rugby reporter over. Back to real life. I recovered from my illness in time to go to the Sports Union ball a couple of weeks ago and had a fabulous time. The ball was held in the Presidential Suite at Murrayfield (yep, the rugby stadium, it was quite exciting) and was part céilidh and part disco. What is a céilidh (pronounced k-lee) you ask? Great fun!! Comparable to square dancing in the states, it involves partners or groups, lots of spinning, jumping and clapping and is quite confusing if you don't know what you're doing. If you're lucky you can find an experienced partner and they'll tell you what to do and when, thus making the night go much smoother. I can't remember the last time I had more fun at a dance. Every time someone mentions céilidh now I get really excited, I'm still on the lookout for another one. All the men in kilts doesn't hurt either!
Well, I think that's it for now. I have papers to write (funny how easily I forget that I have actual school work to do) and philosophers to read. On that note, I guess I should give a shout out to the newest member of the family - my father's cat, Hobbes. (Apparently of Calvin and, but I think it is really the dead philosopher - I could be wrong though). Sorry this was a rugby heavy post - hopefully subsequent posts will focus more on exploring Edinburgh, which is on the agenda for this week since friends are visiting. Oh, and I hope everyone had a great Valentine's Day!

The perils of being sick...

Unfortunately for all my plans this week, I am sick. While I've managed to pull myself out of bed for classes (sometimes I even manage to convince myself that I'm a good student), going outside in the cold is a very unappealing prospect for any other reason. So to augment my boredom I've been surfing the internet and reading books about Scottish history. Clearly a productive use of my time.

Anyway, while I'm not exploring the city, this is what has been keeping my interest.

• Lolcats! Seriously, they are hilarious, an excellent pick-me-up. Check it out: http://icanhascheezburger.com
• The first weekend of the Six Nations is almost upon us! As a huge Scotland fan I was super disappointed to miss out on tickets to the opener vs. France. However, I hear that every pub will be packed, so I'm sure it will be a good day anyway. I have high hopes for Scotland this year, they look like a good squad. I was a little surprised when Hadden opted not to start Paterson, but I have faith in Frank so I'll accept his decision. If none of that made any sense to you, go brush up on your rugby. The BBC Rugby Union site is really good. Scrum.com is also good for rugby news, and rugbydump.com has quality rugby videos.
  
• (Men may feel free to skip over this next part) My favourite store is Monsoon, seriously it is wonderful (check it out here). Sadly Monsoon doesn't have stores in the States, but look through their stuff, it is very good quality. Anyway I am going to a dance tomorrow night (assuming I am no longer ill) and justified a shopping excursion to myself. Long story short, I wound up with 2 little black dresses (one is 100% silk). The total for both? About $110. Now the hard part is deciding which one to wear.
  
• I've decided that I need a new computer as I've had my current one for almost three years (I'm pretty sure that Apple doesn't even sell the iBook anymore). When I come home I think I'll look into the MacBook Air.
• Current Reading List (for those times when I have to pull myself away from YouTube and BBC):
• Scotland: The Story of a Nation by Magnus Magnuson.
• The Scottish Nation 1700-2007 by T.M Devine (who doubles as one of my lecturers in 'The Making of Modern Scotland' - also known as 'Reasons why Scotland is the best country in the world and Ireland sucks').
• Alexander McCall Smith's 44 Scotland Street series.
• Kathy Reichs' Temperance Brennan series. Reichs is an AU alum and the show Bones is based on her work.

Fingers crossed that I feel better tomorrow and I can get on with exploring the city, dancing, playing rugby and pretty much doing anything that doesn't involve wasting away in my room.

Catching up...

Clearly I fail at actually keeping a blog. I feel like this is similar to keeping a journal. Historically I've done really well for the first couple of days, and then inevitably the entries become more and more infrequent... (Hmmm, it occurs to me that this is the case with the journal on my shelf right now, maybe I should fix that.) Hopefully I'll be better about it from now on.
Anyway, I've finally settled into my new city and I have to say that I absolutely love it here. In fact, I like it so much I may never leave. Edinburgh is amazing. I still haven't seen everything, but I have a list of bests so far...

Best Drink: Snakebite
Best Pub: The clear winner on this one is Bannerman's on Cowgate.
Best Coffee Shop: Chocolate Soup - word of warning, don't eat anything for at least a day before entering!!!
Best View: Arthur's Seat, pretty much anything from the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle
Best Food: West Nile for Sudanese food, delicious!!
Best Workout: Walking. Seriously! Edinburgh is a very hilly city.
Best Statue: Greyfriars Bobby, at the top of Chambers Street.
Best Holiday: Burns' Night - kilts galore!!!

Places I haven't seen yet, but want to:
Mary King's Close
National Museum of Scotland and Royal Museum of Scotland (they are right across the street from my flat - you'd think I would have been by now!)
Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Place, Calton Hill
Parliament

So, I guess I'll be busy this week! Other plans include rugby practice/games and the Sports Union ball on Thursday. I'll work on finding time for another update soon!

Umbrellas, tweed and other observations about fashion in Edinburgh.

Today was one of those days. I guess I would describe it as an Edinburgh day. Not bad, just...dreary. (http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/5day.shtml?world=0005)
Anyway, the cold weather got me thinking about, of all things, fashion. To be fair, I thought I was (fashionably) prepared for the weather. I dutifully packed my lovely wellies, an umbrella and four jackets. A plethora of sweaters (or jumpers, if you prefer the vernacular), mittens, hats and scarves also came along. For good measure I brought plenty of long socks and my mom was even kind enough to buy those little hand warmers that go in your gloves. For all intents and purposes, I was ready to deal with the short, cold, rainy days that characterize Edinburgh in January.

To my surprise, I was woefully unprepared for a Scottish winter. True, my clothes are all warm enough and my umbrella is certainly handy when it rains. However, for all my careful preparation, I failed to take Scottish fashion standards into account. So, should any of you care to visit delightfully rainy Edinburgh, allow me to advise your packing list.

Ladies:

• Colours should be limited to accessories, especially bold colours. A red scarf or yellow bag are certainly acceptable, perhaps even a bright shirt, but remember that said bright colours must always be paired with an appropriately dreary outfit.
  
• Overcoats should be dark. Black is best, but navy, gray and brown are all acceptable alternatives. Patterns should be understated, dark tweed or muted plaid, for example.
• Boots are the preferred footwear. NOT wellingtons, never wellingtons. No, sensible suede boots should be worn, regardless of the weather. After all, nothing keeps feet warmer in the rain than a nice pair of Uggs. Should you find yourself without suede boots, boots of any kind excluding wellingtons will do. No boots? Fine, flats may also be worn.
  
• Trousers ('pants' means underwear here, fyi), especially jeans, should only be worn if you have no other clean clothes. Sweatpants are a no-no at all times (my mother has been telling me this for years).
• The standard daily outfit is a denim mini skirt with black tights, boots, a jumper, a jacket (short, so people can see the skirt), gloves, hat and scarf. Remember, somber colours!
• If you plan on going out, bring a pair of high heels and a bag big enough to carry flats. Also plan on knowing a good cobbler, the cobble stones are murder on heels.

Gentlemen:

• A good cable knit sweater is an excellent idea. Not only will it look dashing underneath a pea coat, you'll stay quite toasty no matter how cold the wind.
  
• Trousers should always be worn with casual shoes. Running shoes should only be worn in athletic situations.
  
• Speaking of athletics, if you really want to blend in, bring along a rugby jersey. Scotland is preferable, though any jersey will make you look more like a local. Word to the wise - the 6 Nations runs from February through mid-March - be aware of who is playing which weekend. Football (Soccer) jerseys are also acceptable.
• Two fashion musts: oxford shirts and jeans.
• Scarves should accompany all outfits.
• And most importantly...SOMBER COLOURS!
  

So, that is my sage fashion advice. By following it, you can rest assured that not only will you be warm, but also dressed to match the weather. It really is a win-win situation. Oh, one last piece of advice. True Scots don't carry umbrellas...only tourists do that! ; )

A Good Connection is Hard to Find

Living in America has conditioned me to speed. No, not the drug, the rate at which we operate. Everything is fast - fast food, one hour photo, drive through Starbucks and wireless internet. Yes, heaven forbid we go anywhere without being able to check our mail - iPhones and blackberries seem to be attached to every one's hands now a days and walk into any Starbucks and I guarantee it is full of people on computers. With such easy access to the wonderful world wide web, is it any wonder we get addicted to it. Most college students (myself included) spend a huge part of their day online - facebook, youtube and instant messaging capture out attention in a way traditional forms of entertainment and communication never could. Why send a letter when facebook can deliver your message instantaneously?!
I've traveled enough to realize that not everyone shares American standards - nor should they, because then life (and travel) would be fairly boring. However, I must confess that when it comes to the internet, I share the stereotypical American belief that things should be done the American way. Imagine my frustration, then, when I realized that connecting to the internet in Edinburgh wasn't going to be quite as simple as it is at home. As much as I complain about it, connecting to EagleNet (AU's internet service) is amazingly fast. Let me walk you through the process of connecting to ResNet (Edinburgh's internet service):

1. Read pointless and redundant information about using the internet, as provided to you on a handy-dandy CD.
2. Try and use CD to discover the MAC address for your computer, only to realize that said CD doesn't work on Macs and you are on your own for finding it.
3. Discover MAC address, after 2 trips to the internet cafe around the corner, one phone call to tech support only to realize that the MAC address is to be found, conveniently enough, in the Network Setup section of the computer.
4. E-mail MAC address and other, seemingly unnecessary, information to Resnet Registration.
5. Problem with original e-mail, please re-send.
6. Move apartments, send e-mail again.
   
7. Realize that there is no wireless, go buy internet cable.
8. Success! Connect to the internet, one whole week after arrival.
   

So, I once again have the internet. I once again glory in my facebook news feed, BBC updates and g-chat. I guess a week without constant internet wasn't entirely awful though, it gave me time to unpack, read a book and catch up on all the sleep I lost on three trans-oceanic flights. It also gave me time to explore my new city...more on that later though, for now the bar across the street is opening and I have another night of listening to drunken songs to look forward to. "Oh flower of Scotland..."